![]() Now if I search my business name under the auto populate I see it with Independence, KS on the listing. I pretty much do not have any traffic, views or calls now. Posted about my SAB listing a few weeks ago about not showing up in search only when you entered the exact name. I got the higher-end of book values for my last three cars: 2006 350Z, 2005 Audi A6 4.2, and a 2001 Maxima SE.I Really need some help. Since my old car was worth more than my new one, I paid 0 TT&L. They MAY have made around a grand or so off of me, but I got my TT&L for free because I traded to a dealer in-state, and in my state, if you don't, you pay TT&L on your new car. I definitely got more than wholesale for my Z06.Īmount owed: 57,800 (Excellent KBB Trade-in is $55,150)Īmount paid for 370Z: $43,500 (Invoice $39,000, sticker $43,000+$500 transport) You then subtract the wholesale dealer price for your trade, from the lowest clean deal price on the new car, this will give you what the exact cash value of your trade and price of the new car. ![]() If your trading in your car on a new model you also need to know the bottom line clean cash deal the dealer would sell you the new car for. You then subtract the range from the trade in price and this will give you what the dealer is actually giving you for your car. To determine dealer wholesale price simply subtract the retail price from the trade in price and then note the result, this will give you the range. I explained this before no dealer is going to pay you more than wholesale for your car, in the bottom end result of the sales transaction. "I will pay you sticker, if you pay my trade off, and I don't care what you show me in what column to arrive at that juncture." They made maybe $1K over invoice unless they found a sucker (which they didn't, it was sold to a dealer in Houston, and I know who bought it). The only advantage would have been saying "They paid me more than I owed! YAY!".a privilege you pay for for those 3 years leading up to it. Keeping it for 3 years so I could be shown + value on it would have only given the dealership more leverage over me, and I would have gotten less for it, paid more interest, etc. I got into the car for a helluva good price, and got out of it for a decent price. Why wait? The only people that makes sense to is people who have some myopic view of things as an "immediate". I would have lost the same, except it would have been more time, and more interest added to it. Why not keep the Z06 longer, until I was right-side-up in it?ĭepreciation happens regardless. Why did I trade so early? I wanted a 370Z. They ate in trade-in nearly what I ate paying MSRP. Going rate for my Z06 based on market research I did, and what i could buy one for tomorrow, as of then: $52-54K. It worked out to within about $1500 of what Lou was going to sell me a 370Z for, except since I bought in-state, I didn't have to pay TT&L on my 370Z. I thought it made sense, and got a fair trade for my Z06. We called a few other dealers in our auto group in Houston, etc. When I traded my Z06 in, the trade value they gave me was "based off of what we can sell it for. Good Condition (Let's assume the dealer used good even though a lot of used cars are beat) What do you guys think?Ģ009 370z with 20K miles with sport package 6 spd (I am not selling my car, just as a reference) I don't know if they are just being conservative or the dealers got to them and started getting them to change their numbers since a lot of consumers were using that number. Upon more comparison between the three, i noticed KBB has the lowest trade in value while one of the higher in retail value. What I don't understand is why the sudden change? I also don't understand how the blue book is actually lower than the black book/NADA (retail value is higher though). Of course when I went to the dealership today, they offered me what the blue book offered (on the extreme low side, but whatever). Lately whenever I go into the dealership, they always seem to reference the blue book when it comes to the value. Black book and NADA are much closer to what the cars would sell for (most banks use NADA to determine your max. In my prior experiences, blue book was useless as their trade in value is always too high and no dealers would come close to it.
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